You’ll know chorizo when you eat it, but it’s a bit hard to define in the abstract.
That’s because there are several hundred varieties of this sausage made across at least three continents, and many bear little resemblance to the others. Making matters worse, chorizo makers in the U.S. are a pretty freewheeling bunch. No matter what the packages say, it can be hard to know what you’re getting.
At its most basic, chorizo is a sausage made from chopped or ground pork and a ton of seasonings, often including garlic. The flavors are deeply smoky and savory, with varying degrees of heat. Most are assertive and peppery, but not truly spicy.
The three main producers of chorizo are Spain, Portugal and Mexico. Spanish and Portuguese chorizo are most common in the U.S., but for many of the products sold here that’s a distinction without a difference. In Spain, chorizo has a distinct red color thanks to ample seasoning with paprika. It is available in two main varieties — cooking and cured.
Cooking chorizo is coarse, crumbly, deliciously fatty, and jammed with spices. The meat can be smoked or plain. To use cooking chorizo, the casing must be removed. The meat then is crumbled and added to other meats or soups, or sauteed.
Cured chorizo is similarly seasoned — including the paprika — but is cured for at least two months. It traditionally is thinly sliced and eaten at room temperature. It also can be finely chopped and cooked. Most chorizo sold in the U.S. is the cured style.
Sometimes it’s best to not overthink things. As in this basic roasted chicken, my take on a simple French classic. I love that everything is just tossed into a pot, put in the oven and ignored until done. The recipe calls for a cast-iron Dutch oven. These really are indispensable for making all manner of roasts and stews. And they are as happy on the burner as in the oven, where their heavy lids seal in moisture.
Roasted Chicken with Chorizo and Root Veggies
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt
3- to 4-pound whole chicken
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 pound cooking chorizo, casing removed and discarded, meat finely chopped
4 sprigs fresh thyme
3 sprigs (each about 4 inches long) fresh rosemary
1 medium yellow onion, quartered
12-ounce bag baby carrots
1 pound new potatoes
1 lemon, quartered
6 cloves garlic, peeled but left whole
Ground black pepper, to taste
Heat the oven to 350 F.
Combine the salt and garlic powder, then rub the mixture over and under the skin of the chicken. Set aside.
In a 5 1/2-quart (or larger) Dutch oven over medium-high, heat the oil. Add the chicken and sear for 5 minutes per side. Transfer the chicken to a plate.
Add the chorizo to the pan, then saute for 4 minutes. Add the thyme and rosemary. Heat for 30 seconds.
Return the chicken to the pan, breast up. Arrange the onion, carrots, potatoes, lemon and garlic around the chicken, then place the lid on the pot. Transfer to the oven and roast for 45 minutes, or until the breast reads 160 F on an instant thermometer. Transfer the chicken to a platter and tent with foil.
Use a slotted spoon to transfer the vegetables and chorizo to a serving bowl. Cover to keep warm. Discard the lemon quarters and any herb stems.
Place the pot over medium heat and bring to a boil. Cook until reduced and thickened, about 3 to 4 minutes. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve the sauce drizzled over the chicken.
Nutrition information per serving: 850 calories; 520 calories from fat (62 percent of total calories); 58 g fat (19 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 195 mg cholesterol; 25 g carbohydrate; 54 g protein; 4 g fiber; 1,410 mg sodium.